Beautiful, friendly NZ

The following tips are the result of three trips to New Zealand (in 1983, 1993 and 2008) totaling some 16 weeks. The last visit my wife, Carol, and I made, in February, reconfirmed our conviction that NZ is the most beautiful and friendly country in the world.

Here are some general suggestions.

We think New Zealand should be visited independently instead of on a group tour so you won’t miss contact with the wonderful people. NZ is an ideal location to be traveled by motorhome (campervan) or by car, staying at farms and B&Bs.

Unless you have more than three weeks, concentrate only on visiting the South Island. And don’t take away New Zealand days to “do” Australia or Fiji.

Plan to do a lot of hiking. The South Island is honeycombed with trails that take from 30 minutes to five days.

Here are recommendations on off-the-beaten-path travel.

Pass up busy Queenstown for tiny Glenorchy, located at the end of Wakatipu Lake and at the mouth of the Dart River on the South Island. It’s a good base for Dart River tours and for day hikes on the famous Routeburn Track.

We’d recommend a stay at the friendly Glenorchy Lodge (Crn Argyle & Mull streets, Glenorchy; phone +64 3 442 9968 or, toll-free in NZ, 0800 925 284, www.wakatipu.com), formerly Glen-Royden. Rates run NZ$100-$135 (near US$78-$106) per room.

At the southern end of the South Island, spend a few days in the Catlins, a region of beautiful forests, isolated beaches, lots of wildlife and magnificent scenery. The area is sparse on accommodations but perfect for a motorhome.

Nelson Lakes National Park is home to two pristine lakes, Rotoiti and Rotoroa, and has dozens of trails and very few tourists. We saw only six people on our 8-hour hike around Rotoiti Lake.

When visiting the park, stay and eat in St. Arnaud at the Alpine Lodge (Main Road, St. Arnaud, Nelson Lakes, NZ; phone +64 3 521 1869 or, in NZ, 0800 367 777, www.alpinelodge.co.nz). However, I would avoid Elaine’s Alpine Café (located next door to the lodge).

The Abel Tasman Coast Track has become very popular, but we still recommend it because, in our opinion, it is simply the best walk in the world. It meanders along the coast of the northwest corner of the South Island.

You can utilize the ferries there to do a one-day walk, but you should treat yourself to the full three days it takes to cover the whole track. Bookings are essential; we used Wilsons Abel Tasman (265 High St., P.O. Box 351, Motueka 7143, Nelson, South Island, NZ; phone +64 3 528 2027 or, in NZ, 0800 223 582, www.abeltasman.co.nz) for a complete package that included bus and boat transfers, guides, meals and accommodations (NZ$1,050, or US$820).

If you really want to get off the beaten path, consider the Rough & Tumble Bush Lodge (Mussel Point, RD 1 Nikau, Westport 7891, NZ; phone +64 03 782 1337, www.roughandtumble.co.nz) at the end of a gravel road beyond the hamlet of Seddonville on the west coast.

There you will find just five comfortable guest rooms and a rustic but elegant lodge hosted by a friendly American/Kiwi couple, recent transplants from the mountains of North Carolina. The all-inclusive price was NZ$200 (US$156) per person per day.

Yes, New Zealand has gotten very expensive, but we hope that won’t deter travelers from visiting our favorite destination. We’d be happy to discuss any questions; phone us at 828/884-9208 or e-mail tedandcarol@netscape.com.

TED MULLETT

Vero Beach, FL