Oslo-Stockholm train in summer

I read Rick Steves’ 2007 “Scandinavia” guidebook looking for tips on transportation between Norway and Sweden. I decided to try the train, booking passage from Oslo to Stockholm (a 5-hour journey) for July ’07.

Via the Internet, from ACP Rail International (www.acprail.com) I purchased standard-class tickets for two adults for $105 per person. My son (under 12) traveled for free.

I specifically requested three seats with a table so we could face one another. We ended up with two seats together and a third seat in the row ahead, without a window; I had a view of a torn curtain.

I assumed that a Swedish train company would have sleek, clean cars. How wrong I was! The carriages were old, hot, dirty and crowded. The toilets were filthy and reeked of urine.

The cars had no air-conditioning, which was understandable. Unfortunately, for the whole car there were only two windows that opened, one in the right front seat and one in the left rear seat. The people sitting in these seats opened the windows about one inch after being asked by several sweating passengers.

It was so sweltering that the Swedish family next to me allowed their 4-year-old son to strip down to his underpants.

Food choices in the one dining car were limited to sandwiches (mainly salami or salmon) and were expensive. A sandwich, chips and juice cost the equivalent of $20.

The train arrived in Stockholm 40 minutes late.

All in all, this train ride was hellish. My advice — fly or take the bus.

JENNIFER M. EISENLAU

Boulder, CO