Tips on visiting Lisbon

I would like to share the following information gathered during a trip to Portugal with my husband, Kip, Nov. 5-14, 2008.

Although taxis in Lisbon are inexpensive, we remind you to not trust the drivers. We had six taxi rides, and we know positively that three drivers tried to cheat us. The others may have cheated us as well but we just didn’t catch it.

One driver tried to shortchange us by €3. Another didn’t turn on the meter when taking us from our Lisbon hotel to the airport. When we asked him to turn it on, he said there was a flat rate of €17 ($22) to the airport. Not true! (€17 was the voucher rate; see below.) We negotiated what we knew was a fair metered rate, €12 ($15.80), which included luggage. A third driver tried to charge more than the metered rate when taking us to a restaurant.

One thing to watch is the tarifa number on the meter. Tarifa 1, for example, would include rides within the metropolitan area, including the airport. The driver may try to key in a higher tarifa number or switch it mid-trip.

If you are new to Lisbon and arrive by air, you may want to purchase a taxi voucher at the airport. There is a special desk for the taxi vouchers in the main terminal. We asked at the information kiosk and were directed to it; it did have a sign for taxi vouchers.

Our voucher cost €17 and was good for transportation and all baggage to our downtown hotel. The salesperson admitted that this price was slightly higher than a normal metered cab ride, but the voucher does help you avoid a hassle with the driver when you’re tired and new to town.

Alternatively, you can take the express AeroBus for only €3 per person, including baggage. On a return trip to Lisbon, we used the bus and were able to disembark practically in front of our hotel; check with the driver to find out if there is a stop close to yours. The bus ticket provided free transportation on all of the city buses, trams and funiculars for the rest of the day as well.

We read in “Rick Steves’ Portugal,” fourth edition, on page 33, “If you fly in on TAP airlines, show your boarding pass to get a free lift into town on the AeroBus.” We tried to do that and the driver refused it, saying that we had to pay the €3. I didn’t see anyone else get on for free.

We highly recommend the Sofitel (Avenida da Liberdade 127, 1269-038, Lisboa; phone +351 21 3228300), where we paid €130 ($171) per night, without breakfast, by booking and prepaying online. It was beautiful and comfortable, and the personnel were exceptionally helpful.

It is only a few blocks from the Rossio area. Each morning we walked two blocks up Avenida da Liberdade to Bela Ipanema café for a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit, pastries and coffee for €6-€10 for two. For the lowest prices, order and eat at the counter.

If you like Indian food, for dinner try Tamarind (Rua da Gloria, 43-45), on a back street about four blocks southwest from the Sofitel. We paid about $50 for two entrées, rice, drinks and one dessert. It’s closed Mondays.

We also highly recommend the tiny Cantinho da Paz (Rua da Paz 4, Lisbon; phone 21/396-96-98), if you can find it. It serves cuisine ($13-$39 per person) from the former Portuguese colony of Goa in India. Make reservations if it’s a busy tourist time.

If you are 65 or over, always ask about a senior discount at all tourist sites and on the trains, even if it isn’t posted, as was the case at the Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon.

In Évora, we took advantage of the senior discount, which begins at age 55, at the 5-star Pousada de Évora, Loios (Largo Conde Vila-Flor, 7000-804 Évora; phone +351 266 730 070, fax 266 707 248).

There, the off-season rate plus the discount came to only €45 ($59) per person per night, including the gourmet buffet breakfast. Though its rooms are tiny, this pousada is lovely and an easy walk from all parts of town.

CYNTHIA KENNETT

Brunswick, ME