Royal rumble through Rajasthan
While in India for five weeks in February-March ’09, my companion, Frank, and I decided to experience the northwestern state of Rajasthan, land of maharajas, palaces and ancient forts.
Fellow travelers recommended hiring a car and driver as the best way to get around. Although buses and trains connect most towns, a personal driver is more efficient.
We planned a two-week tour through a Delhi travel agency, Silver Line Travel (7-8-9 Krishna Mkt., Pahar Ganj, New Delhi; e-mail harryhoney@rediffmail.com). The cost for the car, driver and hotel stays plus an additional stop at the Taj Mahal amounted to $668 per person. Starting and ending in Delhi, the tour, Feb. 19-March 4, included visits to the towns of Mandawa, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Khuri, Jodhpur, Pushkar, Udaipur, Jaipur and Agra.
Museum entrance fees and dinner were up to us, though the cost was negligible ($2-$4 each). All hotels included breakfast (eggs, porridge, toast, fruit and coffee or tea plus, often, more).
Our driver, Randheer, spoke enough English to let us know that it was his job to take care of us. On the main road, we passed camel carts and ambling cows as well as trucks burdened under marble slabs. Passing cars and scooters left little margin for error, but Randheer took few risks.
Though it seemed we moved quickly, each day brought new gems, including the Rat Temple; Pushkar Lake; Udaipur’s Hotel Swaroop Vilas; the Mehrangarh Fort; the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) and a star-lit desert stay. The 15th-century Jain Temple near Ranakpur also begs a visit.
In our opinion, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Jaipur warrant two-night stays.
We found the best fort tour to be in Jodhpur. The entrance fee for Mehrangarh Fort runs about 250 rupees ($5), allowing cameras and providing an excellent, well-organized English audio guide. Its elaborate museum exhibits turbans, weaponry, royal clothing and howdahs.
The Mehrangarh gift shop is worth visiting, and Café Mehran offers a pleasant respite with its Western-style desserts.
If hiring a car to tour Rajasthan, be sure to book through a reputable agent and make certain that your car has seat belts and safe tires.
I’d recommend staying in the heart of any town, though hotels there tend to be noisier. Because of the heat, I needed A/C, so we ended up at three- and four-star hotels, most of which were sufficient — some extraordinary — but they were not always in central locations. Town centers offer Internet services.
Consider staying in havelis, former private mansions often chock-full of interesting artifacts. However, havelis are less likely to have English-speaking TV channels, Internet service or pools.
Also, take quick-drying travel clothing designed for hot weather, and dress conservatively — no low-cut blouses or short skirts. If visiting the desert, take a jacket for the evening.
Be sure to carry small bills (10 to 20 rupees) for tips and toilet paper, just in case.
If traveling with electrical gadgets, don’t forget a plug adapter. I took three models, but the two-round-pronged adapter (B) worked in every hotel.
KIMBERLY EDWARDS
Sacramento, CA