Freighter around Europe

I traveled on a Grimaldi Lines freighter, Grande Spagna, June 6-July 5, 2009. From Valencia, Spain, we sailed past Gibraltar to England, Holland and Belgium. We docked at Portugal on the way back to the Mediterranean, stopping at Valencia again before heading on to Italy (three ports), Greece and Turkey and finishing at Valencia.

I was scheduled to leave Valencia on June 2. That was changed to June 3, and I finally left on June 6 on a different vessel than originally scheduled.

I had waited in Valencia a few days before the vessel was expected in port, and the Saturday of departure found me early to the dock only to be told by the guard that no ships were expected that day and no one was working in the Grimaldi office.

After my taxi driver convinced him to call someone who might know more of the situation, he reluctantly reported that a vessel was due in at noon and I should return at 2 p.m. to board. I waited at the guardhouse almost two hours before someone from the Grimaldi building came out looking for me.

The Grande Spagna picked up and delivered cars at all the ports visited. In most cases, the ports were miles from the city. Antwerp was 25 miles away, and I made the mistake of getting a taxi to take me to town. The round trip cost just short of $200! After that, I inquired the distance before calling a cab.

In another port I called for a taxi at 1 p.m., then learned from the driver that the shops closed at 1 and reopened at 3:30 p.m.

For most of my journey, there were no other passengers aboard. There were to have been seven, but after the only other one left at Southampton, I spent the rest of the journey sitting on the top deck reading or, at a port, watching the unloading and loading of cars and scooting down the ramp to walk on the dock.

My meals were mediocre. I ate in the officers’ mess and was seated at an end table with my back to the men. A row of plants between our tables was later added. If the master caught my eye, he would speak; otherwise, he avoided looking in my direction.

The friendly one was the chief engineer, who made opportunity to chat and made me feel welcome. The mates would greet me pleasantly, and some conversation ensued. The rest of the crew, who were Italian and Indian, spoke little English but were friendly. The steward served my meals cheerfully and cleaned my cabin each day.

Freighter World Cruises (Pasadena, CA; 800/531-7774 or 626/449-3106, www.freighter world.com) arranged the 29-day trip, and the cost was $3,798 for a single cabin; airfare was not included.

Freighter World Cruises required health and accident insurance, and I purchased that for $839 from Travelex Insurance Services (Omaha, NE; 800/228-9792, www.travelex-insurance.com).

NANCY BUNYAN

Kauai, HI