Bilbao vs. Madrid

For four exhilarating days, Dec. 11-14, 2009, I “basqued” in the élan of bodacious Bilbao. It was my fifth visit to that blossoming metropolis. Also a fifth visit, I stayed in Madrid, Jan. 4-11, 2010. While, I think, Madrid is getting by on its past, Bilbao has eagerly embarked on the future. For me, it is the most exciting and vital city in Spain.

Here’s an interesting contrast. Bilbao’s Museo de Bellas Artes (Plaza del Museo, 2, 48011 Bilbao, Spain; phone 94 439 60 60, www.museobilbao.com), though only a fraction of the size of Madrid’s Reina Sofia or Thyssen-Bornemisza, houses a far-wider-ranging collection, and it’s free on Wednesdays. No freebies in Madrid, where, in addition, postcards of the artworks are twice the price of those in Bilbao!

In fact, in my opinion, the “heap of tin” known as the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, while a fantastical building, displays less impressive works than the Museo de Bellas Artes (open 10-8, Tuesday-Sunday. €6 adult, €4.50 senior).

Bilbao’s museum area is mushrooming with elegant apartment blocks and towering buildings slicing the sky. The city has an electrifying collection of buildings and art, both classic and modern.

In Madrid I stayed at the four-star Tryp Atocha (Calle de Atocha, 83, 28012 Madrid; phone [34] 913 300 500 or e-mail tryp.atocha@solmelia.com), an easy walk from museums and attractive plazas. Seven days’ stay cost €565 (near $750).

In Bilbao I stayed at the three-star Tryp Arenal (C/Los Fueros, 2, 48005 Bilbao; phone 94 415 31 00 or e-mail tryp.arenal@solmelia.com), located across from the Arriaga opera house in the historic center of the city and surrounded by restaurants, bars and shops. The tram and metro are a block away through the park and along the river. My fine room in this charming hotel cost €197 (near $261) for four days.

DAN LEVINE

Tampa, FL