Argentine adventures

We traveled in Argentina, March 24-April 7, 2010, spending a few days each in Mendoza, Puerto Iguazú and Buenos Aires.

Downtown Mendoza is a pleasant place with tree-lined streets. We stayed in its center at the Royal Hotel Horcones (Avenida General Las Heras 145, 5500 Mendoza City, Mendoza, Argentina; phone 261 4250045 or 4237010) — nothing fancy, but it was well located, clean and relatively inexpensive (a double for 184 pesos [near $47] and a single, 134 pesos).

There are many wineries in the Mendoza area. We got a list of wineries from our wine merchant so we could focus on wines we could get at home.

I suggest that you book a reservation at each winery, particularly if you intend to have lunch there. You should also get detailed driving instructions, as we found GPS, local maps and Google Maps to be unreliable.

We had a very good wine tasting and an excellent lunch at Bodega Norton (Ruta 15 - km 23,5, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina; phone 261 4880480).

In the Maipú district, we had an outstanding lunch of two tasting boards plus wine ($56) at Almacén del Sur, a delicatessen/farm (709 Zanichelli St., Coquimbito, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina; phone 261 497 5802) — expensive but well worthwhile.

In Mendoza we enjoyed meals costing $47-$56, including wine, at the Italian restaurant La Marchigiana (Av. Patricias Mendocinas 1550, Mendoza, Argentina; phone +54 [0] 261 4291590).

There appeared to be a shortcut out of Mendoza to Highway 7, the road to the Chilean border, but after several miles we discovered that it was barricaded. Instead, take Highway 40 south to its junction with Highway 7.

When we arrived at Upsallata on Highway 7, we didn’t have time to go to the border, so we decided to take Highway 52 at Uspallata back to Mendoza. This road is an adventure that you should not take if you are faint of heart or it has been raining in the mountains.

Out of Uspallata, it started out as a decent gravel road, then it became gravel-dirt through dry washes. Eventually, we reached the summit, at about 9,800 feet, and, shortly, the plain on which Mendoza is located was visible about 7,000 feet below.

The spiral road, on bedrock and dirt, hangs on the cliffs until Villavicencio, about halfway to Mendoza. At that point the road is paved to Mendoza.

We had a small rental car and made it without problems, but you need to pay attention to driving. You will miss most of the fun if you take Highway 52 from Mendoza rather than from Upsallata.

If you have a choice, be at Iguazú Falls during the five days centered on the full moon. On those days there are tours in the moonlight to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat).

If you tire of hotel food, there are several restaurants in Puerto Iguazú.

An out-of-the-way suggestion in Buenos Aires — walk south on Florida, the pedestrian street, to where it becomes Peru and continue to Chile. At the corner of Peru and Chile streets, among car dealers, industrial supply stores, etc., is Gran Parrilla del Plata, a businessmen’s restaurant. We had a very fine lunch there of a large salad, steak (perfect), wine and dessert ($61 total).

If you are interested in a tango performance, check out what is playing at the Borges Center at Galerías Pacifico on Florida.

PHILIP F. BEACH

Eatonville, WA