Art old and new in Amsterdam

The art I saw during my visit to Amsterdam, Sept. 5-16, 2013, ranged from paintings by Vermeer and Rembrandt to modern photographs and films. I started by buying a Museumkaart (not the I amsterdam City Card) at a museum for €54 (near $74). The card provides admission and other benefits throughout the Netherlands for a whole year. 

A complete list of museums in Amsterdam can be found on the “I amsterdam City Card” map, which can be purchased for €2.50 ($3.50) at the information booth in front of Centraal Station. I describe, below, eight of the museums I visited. (Also see April ’14, pg.15.)

• You can take a free passenger-and-bike ferry to reach the EYE Film Institute (Postbus 37767, 1030 BJ Amsterdam, The Netherlands; phone +31 [0] 20 589 14 00), the name of which meshes well with the River IJ (next to which the institute is located and pronounced “eye”) and the prospect of seeing featured movies. 

At the time I visited, Woody Allen’s “Blue Jasmine” and three Fellini films were playing. There was a special exhibit about the latter for an extra €3.50.

The spectacular modern architecture is by Delugan Meissl Associated (which designed the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart, Germany). The views are amazing from anywhere in the building. If weather permits, have a coffee, lunch or dinner on the deck overhanging the river. 

• The Foam Photography Museum Amsterdam (Foam Editions, Keizersgracht 609; phone +31 [0] 20 551 65 00) shows modern art. I didn’t particularly care for the exhibit at the time (droopy shower curtains?).

• The Rijksmuseum (Postbus 74888, 1070 DN Amsterdam; phone +31 [0] 20 6747 000) celebrated its grand reopening in 2013 after 10 years of restoration. 

I went here three times in order to take all of it in. Rembrandt, Vermeer and other magnificent paintings throughout as well as china, furniture, etc. On my third visit, I discovered two rooms of both large and small ship models that my husband would have loved.

• I visited the Stedelijk Museum (Postbus 75082, 1070 AB Amsterdam; phone +31 [0] 20 5732 911) of modern art (Kunst, Rothko, etc.) twice. 

Plus I adored the food at the spectacular adjoining restaurant of the same name, which has both inside and outside seating.

• There is extra-tight security at the Van Gogh Museum (P.O. Box 75366, 1070 AJ Amsterdam, The Netherlands; phone +31 [0] 20 570 5200), with its magnificent paintings. I also went here twice. Be sure to see the 15-minute film about van Gogh’s life. 

These last two museums are grouped together, separated from the Rijksmuseum by a long block. 

• The Willet-Holthuysen Museum (Postbus 3302, 1001 AC Amsterdam; phone +31 20 5231 822) is a stately and elegant canal house which, in 1885, was bequeathed to the city by this married couple along with their furniture and, among other treasures, a huge collection of Meissen china.

• At the Huis Marseille, or Museum for Photography (Keizers­gracht 401; phone +31 [0] 20 531 89 80), I liked the variety of 14 exhibits showing artwork created by young, present-day artists. I also enjoyed the 5-story canal house with its narrow, winding stairs and multiple rooms on each floor, their stark white background nicely setting off the photos.

• At the Grachtenhuis, or Canal House Museum (Herengracht 386; phone +31 20 421 16 56), admission costs €12 ($16), as this one is not on the Museumkaart. Opened in 2011, it is a 3-dimensional and multimedia experience focusing on the planning and creation of the canal belt between 1613 and 1650, with “peeks” into some of the buildings today. Quite amazing!

As you can see, many of these museums are in canal houses, each an experience in itself.

MARILYN HILL

Portland, OR