Dining in Amsterdam
Although Amsterdam is, in general, a very expensive city, you can eat out inexpensively if you know what you’re doing (just no lobster or steak). Each day of my stay there, Sept. 5-16, 2013, I ate my largest meal at lunch and just a light snack for dinner.
One of my favorite things to eat in Amsterdam was their yogurt. It’s fantastic! I bought my excellent yogurt, apples and bananas at one of the four branches of Albert Heijn, a version of a supermarket, near my hotel (June ’14, pg. 30), the Swissôtel Amsterdam (Damrak 96, 1012 LP, Amsterdam, The Netherlands).
I also enjoyed a tiny ice cream (ijs) shop that sold only plain vanilla. Located on a long, pedestrian-only street behind the Swissôtel, the shop had lines of people out the door. Once you’ve squeezed inside the narrow space, you take a number. (“No whipped cream in mine, please.”) Prices ran from €1 (near $1.40) on up. A very generous scoop could cost €1.60.
The ice cream sold at some other shops was much more expensive, selling Italian gelato or frozen yogurt with toppings (like what we have in the US). I even saw a Ben & Jerry’s.
Salads were another favorite of mine. I loved the variety, especially at three of the restaurants a well-traveled friend had recommended. I had also seen these restaurants mentioned in magazines and guidebooks. I soon became hooked, visiting each one three times.
Café Walem (Keizersgracht 449, 1017 DK Amsterdam; phone 020 62 53 544) sold a salad made with couscous and mixed lettuce on the bottom, with soft, sun-dried tomatoes, pieces of dates and a large, thick round of warm goat cheese on top (€12). Canal seating was available outside.
The choices at the upstairs salad bar at Café de Jaren (Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20-22, 1012 CP Amsterdam; phone +31 020 62 55 771) were fabulous, and the pointy-ended fresh brown rolls with different seeds on top, divine. There were two floors, with outside seating on both decks, the lower level facing a canal. €10 ($13.75) at lunch, €12 for dinner.
Very special was Restaurant Stedelijk (Museumplein 10, Amsterdam; phone +31 020 57 32 651), adjoining the museum of the same name. I was treated royally by Wouter Jongkind and server Maarten, enjoying the large salad Nicoise (€14) and the large fresh tomato risotto with arugula, courgette and three giant prawns (€18, or €12 without the prawns).
Lastly, I had my apple “pancake” — which is what the Dutch call our version of a crepe (€4.50) — at a stand at the farmers’ market, held each Saturday. You will find many of these specialty cafés throughout the city.
MARILYN HILL
Portland, OR