Lavish palaces, luxurious city sights and lots more during six days in Dubai

by Joyce Bruck; Ocean Ridge, FL

After spending eight days in the Sultanate of Oman, I traveled on to spend six days in Dubai. The airport in Dubai was so big, it reminded me of Miami International, including the long lines at Passport Control. 

My hotel, the Riviera (Baniyas Rd.), arranged for transportation from the airport by a van ($15), so the driver was waiting for me at the other side of Immigration. As a United States citizen, I did not have to pay a fee for the visa, but I did have to get a stamp.

Making plans

After checking several hotels on Booking.com, making some reservations, canceling a few and studying maps, I wound up at the Riviera, located on Dubai Creek in the Deira section. Booking far in advance is suggested. Booking.com offers a no-fee-for-cancellation option at a slightly higher price. 

Six nights in a very nice room (I opted out of the water view), with a daily buffet breakfast included, cost AED2,550 ($694) plus 20% in taxes. 

Before and during the trip, I made extensive use of the Lonely Planet guide for Dubai, one of the seven states of the United Arab Emirates. This was my “bible.” The hotel was also very helpful, providing maps of the No. 8 bus route and the metro stops. (I did not use the metro, but it seemed to be a good transportation system.)

My big mistake was arriving on a Friday. Very few people in Oman and the United Arabic Emirates (UAE) work on Friday, as it is considered a holy day to Muslims, and most stores and museums were closed. Therefore, there were very few options for sightseeing.

However, my arrival day was not a total waste; I hopped on the free hotel bus that went to the beach (with return), 20 minutes each way. On the way back, I got off to roam through the few open stores in the interesting Gold Souk and the picturesque Spice Souk, which were both on my “to do” list and suggested by the hotel. With fewer people, it was easier to take photographs. 

A walk along Dubai Creek offered views of picturesque boats and ferries that were busy transporting passengers to and from the other side. Crossing the creek near the hotel can be done on a small public boat called an abra at a cost of one to two dirham (about 25¢ to 50¢).

Hop on, hop off

There are so many sights in Dubai to choose from that my mind was boggled, so I took the “Big Red” hop-on, hop-off bus (BigBustours.com) on a 48-hour ticket, which cost AED295, or $80. (For 24 hours, the cost was AED220.) The bus traveled on two connecting routes — red and blue — returning to each stop about every 20 minutes. They started about 10 a.m. and ended about 5:30 p.m. The bus stop was across the street from my hotel. 

Tours were available from other companies, but the Big Bus allowed some flexibility. There was an audio commentary on comfortable headsets available in various languages.

During the first 24 hours on my ticket I went to the Heritage Village, where there was a scheduled walking tour that included the former home of the esteemed Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum. Unfortunately, the group I was with from the bus wasn’t able to connect with the guide, but I did see the renovated home, now a museum housing rare, old photos of Dubai. 

I then went to the interesting Dubai Museum in the Bur Dubai district. Located in the converted old Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest building in Dubai, the museum featured displays that depicted life in the area as it was long ago. Entry to the museum was free with a pass from the Big Bus or AED3 without.

While asking directions to the nearby “Hindi Lane,” mentioned in my guidebook, I met a young man who took me there as well as to a very fascinating Hindu temple and Arab mosque. For an offering, he bought flowers and other items for us both. 

Then he showed me the Dubai Old Souk, featuring textiles and an art museum. We parted good friends. 

After my excursion, I spotted a small, quaint courtyard restaurant called Arabian Tea House Restaurant & Café (phone +971 4 353 5071). For AED55, I had high tea, served under large trees, with cucumber sandwiches, cakes and scones along with clotted cream. 

Then I took advantage of the Big Bus credit of a one-hour boat trip on Dubai Creek. From this different perspective, I took many pictures of people and buildings. It was an enjoyable experience.

Toward the end of the day I went to The Dubai Mall, located in downtown Dubai. The tour of the mall, the world’s largest, is offered only two times a day, so I had to take the 5 p.m. walk. 

The guide and I went to see the designated sights: the huge Dubai Aquarium, the waterfalls, the ice skating rink and the famous Dubai Fountain, with 500-foot-high “dancing waters.” The world’s tallest man-made structure, Burj Khalifa, was visible in the background. 

Unfortunately, because of the late hour, I missed the last bus back and had to return to the hotel by taxi (about $10). 

Independent exploration

Before leaving the US, I made a reservation with Viator (in US and Canada, phone 866/648-5873) for their “Evening in the Desert” excursion ($100) for my second night in Dubai. A van picked me up at my hotel and I joined five other people for the first part of the trip. 

We made our way out of town to a private reserve, where we transferred to jeeps to explore the trails, driving through sand dunes looking for gazelles and oryx. Though not “dune bashing,” the ride was still a little scary for me. 

Around dusk, we were taken to a simulated Bedouin camp, where we were served a tasty meal with several courses from which to choose. This was followed by water pipes, for those who desired, and a belly dance performance. Entertainment also included camel rides and a demonstration of falcon training with the bird pursuing its prey. It was at least 10:30 p.m. when I was delivered back to the hotel.

On the second day of using my Big Bus ticket, I took the Blue Line to the man-made Palm Jumeirah, illustrated in pictures around the world, stopping first for a view of Jumeirah Public Beach. Then the bus made a stop at the well-known Atlantis hotel, sister to the one in the Bahamas, offering a variety of water activities. 

By the next day, my 48-hour pass for the Big Bus had run out, so I decided to pick up a few places I missed, such as the Jumeirah Mosque, via the No. 8 bus that ran along the beach’s Sheikh Zayed Road. I purchased a Nol Silver Card for AED20. (This included a fee of 6 dirham, leaving AED14 on the card to be used on all modes of local transportation.) This and other types of transportation cards can be purchased at metro and bus stations. 

My prearranged tour at the Jumeirah Mosque started at 10 a.m. and lasted 75 minutes. When entering the mosque, female visitors must cover their arms and have on scarves that completely cover their hair. Also, shoes must be removed and left outside in a designated area. 

Though it explained to me the customs of performing the prayers, I was disappointed in the relatively small, simply decorated mosque. 

After my visit to the mosque, I got back on the bus, getting off a little farther down Jumeirah Beach for better pictures of one of the most famous buildings in Dubai, the 1,053-foot-high Burj Al Arab Hotel, which is in the shape of a large open sail on a boat. 

Then I grabbed the next bus headed back so I could find a place to eat along the way. When I spotted a well-known Italian-themed mall, The Mercato, I got off to have a meal after my strenuous morning, which had included a lot a walking between bus stops. 

There were many choices, but after wandering around I selected a place called Paul. I had a very good chicken crêpe served with a small salad and accompanied by the delicious fresh juice typical of the area. The total cost for my meal was AED69 ($19).

On the way back to the hotel I got on the wrong bus. After switching to two other buses, I was able to get to Creek Park, located across the water from my hotel. By then I was fairly tired. 

One evening, when I had a hard time getting across the canal to get back to my hotel, I hitched a ride with a family who had just hired a small boat to go cruising. By the time we reached the other side, we were good friends and I was taking their picture. 

Most people I encountered spoke English, and they all were friendly. I discovered that whether someone had $500 or $500 million, they seemed to dress and act the same. 

Usually, taking pictures of women was not allowed, and getting permission from men before taking their pictures is advised.

On to Abu Dhabi

My last day, though unplanned, turned out to be one of the best. For the large fee of AED800 ($218), I hired a private driver/guide (email nizarchemnad@gmail.com) whom my hotel found for me for a full day’s trip to the state of Abu Dhabi. Some tours are much cheaper, but they do not include a visit inside Emirates Palace, which was one of my main objectives. 

It took two hours to get there by car. (You can also get there by bus from Dubai.) 

The most important sights I visited were the Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque and the Emirates Palace hotel. Both were magnificent, opulent beyond imagination. The hotel even had a gold-bar-vending machine! 

The mosque could accommodate up to 40,000 people in the central courtyard and main prayer hall. The white-marble building, decorated with gold leaf, semiprecious stones, crystals, ceramics and seven gold-plated chandeliers, has the world’s largest hand-knotted Persian carpet; it took two years and more than 1,200 people to weave it. 

Among other options were a visit to the Heritage Village (not very good) and a Lamborghini ride (which didn’t interest me, so I didn’t go).

Since I was determined to have a meal or high tea at the Emirates Palace, I made enquiries as to the location of the restaurant recommended in Lonely Planet, but it was closed. I was directed to an alternative restaurant, Mezlai, and it was an excellent choice. 

The Emirates Palace had gorgeous chandeliers and carpets, high ceilings, beautiful views from the restaurants and magnificent furniture. There were marble bathrooms off each level. 

The rooms in the restaurant were about two stories high. I had scallops over bulgur seasoned with saffron, which cost AED97 ($26) including water and taxes. Though I really wanted to end with dessert, the meal was rich and filling. 

It was an experience I will always remember.