In and around Bolzano

On May 3, 2014, for the fifth time, I returned to Bolzano, Italy, for a week at the Parkhotel Laurin (Via Laurin Strasse 4, 39100 Bolzano/Bozen; phone +39 0471 311 000, www.laurin.it), what I consider a palace with an included you-never-want-to-miss breakfast (March ’12, pg. 47).

For lunch, I returned to the delightful Hopfen & Co. (Piazza delle Erbe 17, Bolzano; phone +39 0471 300788, www.boznerbier.it) for their version of risotto with arugula, mushrooms and thin slices of beef (€8.50). Their English translation for the dish is “Rice Pan.”

The drink I ordered was a “Radler” (€2.20), half draft beer and half lemonade. And I liked a trattoria called La Cambusa del Lazzarone (Via Streiter Gasse 7B, Bolzano; phone +39 0471 300684), where I had another risotto with white asparagus (€10, near $13) plus a mixed green salad with olives, tomatoes and corn (€4.50).

I look for places where I can feel comfortable as a single woman.

One day, I took a side trip north to Bressanone/Brixen. I rode one way on a bus, which took an hour, with many stops. Once in town, I got off at the second stop, University. I continued straight ahead to the charming, medieval Old Town. I did the return on a train, which took a half hour. Either mode of transportation costs €6.

On a side street, I found Kutscherhof Osteria/Pizzeria (Via Vescovado 6, Bressanone; phone +39 0472 802674, www.kutcherhof.it), where I had cold peach tea and canederli, a typical German dish of two huge bread balls containing spinach, served in a lovely broth.

Other choices were cheese, bacon or both. The bill was €10. There is a bike/walking trail along the fast-moving river, a confluence of the Eisack and Rienz.

Another side trip was to Runkelstein Castle (entry, €8 per adult), on which initial construction began in 1237. (Google it for a smashing photo of the exterior and information about its history.)

There is a free, 8-person shuttle between Walther Square in Bolzano and the castle. The pickup spot is located right beside the taxis. It runs erratically, so you should call the number on the sign or, if no cell phone is handy, have the nearby tourist information bureau do it for you. It takes about 10 minutes for the drive up.

But, beware, the final walk to the castle is very steep and paved with large stones, which cause uneven footing and could be very slippery if it’s been raining.

Once inside the castle, you’ll feel it was worth the climb. Magnificent! It was donated to the city of Bolzano by Emperor Franz Josef of Austria in 1893 and, after being restored, was finally opened to the public in 2000. It contains fascinating nooks and crannies, original frescoes in some of the rooms, a couple of triple-vault ceilings and nicely displayed artifacts.

I took the modern Renon/Ritten suspension-cable gondola (€10, round trip) up to the sunny plateau of Renon in the Sarentino Valley on two different days. The plateau is at about 3,280 feet in altitude. It was warm when I left Bolzano, but the mountain air was cool and fresh. There are many hiking trails and walking paths to try, and, since it was a Sunday, I wasn’t alone. 

For lunch, I had the “special” of outstanding creamy veggie lasagne with homemade noodles (€10) at Trattoria Babsi (Via del Paese 4, Soprabolzano; phone +39 0471 345 385, www.babsi.it), a guest house with three studio apartments above it for rent.

There are many other Gasthauses, both large and small, to choose from. I highly recommend this excursion, which is only a 10- to 15-minute walk from the hotel and, upon arrival, a block’s walk from the little town.

Surrounding the village are the breathtaking snowcapped peaks of the Dolomites and the Alps.

MARILYN HILL

Portland, OR