Adapting to a change in plans to explore the magnificent landscape of New Zealand

by Donna Altes; Napa, CA

After being stuffed in like sardines on two lengthy transpacific flights, I hobbled through the airport in Auckland, New Zealand, noticing all the signs stating, “Do not bring vegetation into NZ; throw away all food, fruits, etc., or you will be fined.” I remembered an apple that I had with me and promptly made a deposit in one of the containers begging to be filled. 

In a hurry to meet the driver waiting to take me on my morning tour of Auckland, I proceeded to the security screening area. After x-raying my carry-ons, an agent pulled me over to question the contents of my purse. Deciding my energy bars were legal, the agent signaled me through. 

Two seconds away from the sliding exit doors, a cute little beagle puppy started to sniff me. Knowing I did not have any drugs, I continued toward the exit. With the puppy still sniffing, I was asked to step over to a table… and the inquisition began.

As the disorganized contents of my long-ago-packed carry-on were emptied, a mutilated banana was plucked out. The look on the TSA agent’s face was grim.

Shaking, I asked if I was in trouble. She nodded her head without expression. 

One hour later — and $400 poorer — I was finally released, red-dotted in their system forever. Welcome to New Zealand! 

Changing plans

Not long before I was scheduled to depart on my trip, my travel companion bowed out, so I decided to reach outside my comfort zone and travel the islands of New Zealand alone. Since we had planned to adventure without a preformed itinerary, I realized that I now needed the security of an arranged route, activities, accommodations, etc., on my April 2014 trip. 

In rearranging my plans, I was connected to Chris, an amazing woman at Dumont Destinations (New Zealand; phone +649 889 9116, www.dumontdestinations.com), who Skyped and emailed me often over the two weeks before liftoff. I shared my wish list with Chris, and she created an itinerary that was perfect. My last-minute arrangements, excluding international air, for which I used frequent-flyer miles, cost just over $11,000 and included car rental, gas, single accommodations, activities, and taxis for my first few days in New Zealand.

Directionally challenged, I was still — even after arriving in Auckland — losing sleep about driving on the left side of the road, alone, while trying to find my way around the North and South Islands of New Zealand. 

After two days of trips in and around the city of Auckland on foot and with hired vans and drivers, I showed up at the Hertz rental agency early on a Saturday morning to begin my independent driving adventure. 

Hitting the road

That first moment of pulling into traffic on the left side of the road still brings chills to my spine. I went around the block four times trying to figure out which roundabout exit the GPS unit was yelling at me to enter. 

For the first hour, I couldn’t figure out how to turn off the front and rear windshield wipers because they were in the same place as the directional signals on cars in the US. As it was a warm, sunny day, I’m sure the drivers of the cars that were zipping by were wondering why I was in full “wiper mode.” 

Travel agent Chris waited to plan past my first three days to see if I would stop crying when I drove. At my signal, she was ready to switch my transportation arrangements to trains, buses and short flights. 

After getting lost in the roundabouts in Rotorua trying to find my hotel, I woke up the next morning thinking, “I can’t do this for three weeks!” However, after spending the next day with an amazingly gentle Maori guide, the realization spread that I needed to conquer my fears.

It was the best decision I have ever made.

An exhilarating adventure

Beginning my adventure in Auckland and traveling to Maori Rotorua, where I fell into one of the geothermal pools, I continued to Taupo and on to Wellington, preferring smaller towns, as I’m not usually enamored of large cities. I loved Wellington’s newly renovated Te Papa Museum, a “must visit.” 

An old hand at driving by this time, I merrily picked up car number two in Picton, situated at the northern tip of the South Island. 

At Kaikoura, I found myself diving in the open ocean with dolphins, one of many firsthand experiences that tested my mettle. 

After being fitted for wetsuits and gear, 30 young, fit, excited adventurers and senior me were transported to several different areas where dolphins were frolicking. Scared to death, I was the last one to jump off the back of the boat. Having to negotiate three successive platforms, flopping in fins, to get off the boat, all I could think was, “How am I going to get back on?” 

Heart beating wildly, I finally was immersed, trying to remember all the advice given: “Entertain the dolphins. Make noises. Swim in circles. Make them want to be around you.” 

Immediately I was surrounded by dolphins; they were darting in and out of my legs, around my head and all around my body. It was breathtaking!

Wonderful wildlife

In New Zealand, you can experience four seasons in one day, and my visit to Dunedin on the wild Otago Peninsula for an exhilarating adventure exemplified that fact.

Unexpectedly, I ended up on a private tour with warm, lovable Kiwi Mark. As we wended our way around rugged coastline and windswept cliffs, with Mark sharing stories of the characters, points of interest and history of Dunedin and the surrounding small villages, my excitement level was building about the adventure that awaited.

We arrived at the immense private sheep ranch of Natures Wonders and I noticed that the women in the bathroom were washing mud off their clothes. Without time to wonder what had happened to them, I was being called to climb into the most unusual ATV I had seen. The powerful vehicle had eight tires and seats for six people. 

The changeable weather brought rain, wind, bitter cold, shining sun and clouds, all in one hour. 

Again out of my zone of comfort, I had to trust that our driver/guide would keep us safe. The steep hills, rutted terrain, big boulders and raw beauty of the surroundings were incredible. 

Mud was flying all over the vehicle’s passengers, but the wildlife stole the show. An entire colony of Hooker’s sea lions (also known as New Zealand sea lions) were frolicking in their natural habitat, playing like children in the natural pools and surf, while most of the mothers were out feeding. 

Royal albatrosses were soaring overhead; with one of the largest wingspans in the world (three meters), they need a certain amount of wind to take off, and on this day it was perfect. To top it off, we were able to spot the rare yellow-eyed penguin on the ranch’s private beach.

On the drive back, the varieties of birds playing in the mud of low tide were numerous — spoonbills, white-faced herons, black swans, paradise shelducks, red-billed gulls, cormorants, northern royal albatross and variable oystercatchers. It was a bird-watcher’s playground.

Muddy, cold, windburned and happy, I climbed off the ATV ready for another adventure in fabulous New Zealand.

As I drove, I felt diminished by the majestic scenery — the hills, mountains, rushing turquoise streams, powerful waterfalls and rolling verdant pastures dotted with thousands of sparkling-white sheep. 

The kindness of strangers

From Christchurch to Queenstown, Dunedin, Franz Josef Glacier, Punakaiki and its Pancake Rocks, Nelson and, finally, Abel Tasman National Park, I was experiencing a country of helpful, trusting people. Because I was alone and constantly getting lost, whether on foot or behind the wheel, I encountered Kiwis who took the time to help me, no matter what they were doing.

When I arrived in Christchurch, I started walking toward the central business district, much of which was destroyed during the 2011 earthquake. I stopped to help a girl park her car, as she was having trouble gauging the distance to the curb. A little while later she caught up with me and suggested that I go with her to the “pop-up” Pallet Pavilion, where an outdoor area for concerts, performances and happenings had been created overnight, with a border made of blue wooden pallets. 

She took me inside, where I bought some wine and enjoyed the star belly dancer’s performance with my new friend.

On another occasion I was lost again and wandered a bit in the dark before asking a young man if he could direct me to a good restaurant. We started walking together, and he gave me a tour of some of the buildings that were scheduled to be torn down. 

He talked about some of the politics involved with the insurance companies dragging their heels in paying damage claims and said that there are new codes that all buildings in New Zealand now must comply with since the big quake. (It turned out that he was a government worker, responsible for some of the rebuilding.) 

The young man turned me in the right direction and we parted. The next thing I knew, a car was pulling up beside me and he yelled, “Get in. I’ll give you a lift.” He took me to the door of a new, hip restaurant. 

The next day, I was driving around the city center trying to find some stores I had seen the day before and I stopped to ask some construction men for help. The boss started to explain where I needed to go — very difficult, since most of the streets were torn up. (Three years post-quake, the reconstruction is going very slowly.) All of a sudden he said, “Move over. I’ll take you there.” 

Once we arrived, he started to take me on a walking tour, explaining a lot of what had transpired during the earthquake. Before leaving, he wrote down his personal cell number in case I needed him again.

All of the New Zealanders I met were just the most open, happy, wonderful people. One person asked me, “Have you figured out why we are so content?” His heartfelt explanation, as he gestured to the surrounding landscape, was, “Look around you!” 

I am in awe of this country.