Return to Easter Island

For years, while I owned and operated a tour company, I offered trips to Easter Island (Rapa Nui). My first tour there was in 1992. After having retired five years before, it was not until 2014 that I had the opportunity to return. My 8-day trip took place Jan. 13-21. 

The changes to the island are unbelievable. The population has increased to almost 4,000. There are many cars, but I did see someone ride his horse to the village, tie it up and go in shopping. The people continue to be warm, friendly and hospitable beyond what I’ve found in other parts of the world.

Since I was traveling alone, I researched the bed-and-breakfast possibilities and settled on one named Aukara Bene Tuki Lodge (Avenida Pont s/n, Easter Island, Chile; phone 56 32 2100539, www.aukara.cl). It was a great decision.

The lodge is close to the airport, where I was met by Ana Maria Arredondo, the owner of the lodge, so I was soon settled in. Ana Maria was born on the continent but moved to the island as a young woman, embracing the local culture. Well recognized for her extensive research on the island and its traditions, she has published books and videos. 

Ana Maria’s husband, Bene Tuki, is a well-known Rapa Nui artist, considered the best wood and stone carver on the island. They have a beautiful art gallery in a yard at their home.

The lodge is well situated — four long blocks from the center of the village, with easy access on foot to shops, small restaurants and the kaleta, a little fishing area where boats are docked.

I stayed in one of the four comfortable rooms on their property with large private bathrooms and cute small quaint porches with rattan chairs surrounded by their beautiful garden. Prices were very reasonable. For my single room, I paid CLP40,000 (at the time, about $80) per night, which included a private bath and a very nice breakfast. A double room cost CLP60,000.

In their home, on the same property, there is an attached guest room, also with a private bath, plus a large dining room where breakfast is served and where you can request to be served lunch and dinner. Guests have access to a large refrigerator to use as they wish. A gazebo with WiFi in the middle of the garden is another welcome addition.

I enjoyed a couple of tours with Ana Maria’s son-in-law, Leo Pakarati, a good, English-speaking guide. He was warm and very knowledgeable on the history and culture of his people, who have been so isolated on this remote and beautiful island. Leo charges $200 for two people for a full day, which includes lunch.

One day, I walked to the kaleta and sat at a small café, people-watching. I was offered a great iced coffee and an outstanding piece of coconut cake. How could I resist?!

The next day, I sat at a café, RA-A, on the main street, and enjoyed a nice ceviche of the freshest fish (around $17) and a wonderful, natural pineapple juice.

On previous visits, I had stayed four days over a weekend so I could attend Mass at the church. I loved to go early because the locals, dressed in their best clothes, gathered a half hour before the service to sing in Rapa Nui. While they each still dressed in their Sunday best, they did not meet early this time, though they did sing in Rapa Nui during the service. The music was so melodious. It was a highlight of my trip.

Note: To reach Easter Island, you must go to Santiago, Chile, first; they’re 2,500 miles apart — a 5½-hour flight. LAN Chile is the only airline covering that route, with some of the flights continuing on to Tahiti.

For more on my experience, you can email me at anitoursboston@yahoo.com.

ANITA B. REAM

Hingham, MA