Touring whisky distilleries in Scotland

Uisge Beatha, Gaelic for “water of life,” is known around the world as Scotch whisky. When my wife, Margaret, and I traveled in Scotland in June 2014 (Nov. ’14, pg. 20), we knew we had to learn more about the national beverage.

There are more than 100 distilleries in Scotland, and more than 30 of those offer tours. We toured four distilleries and learned a great deal about making and tasting whisky.

Most distilleries charge for a tour that includes a “wee dram” to sample, and the tour price starts at $10. If you want more than one sample, the price is higher.

However, on our first tour in Oban we learned that Diageo, which owns a number of distilleries in Scotland, offers free membership in “Friends of the Classic Malts.” Membership allows you free tours at any of Diageo’s 12 distilleries that produce single-malt Scotch whisky.

If you visit all 12 and get a stamp in the free “Friend’s Journal,” you also receive a pewter quaich (Scottish ceremonial drinking cup) as a memento. You can register at www.malts.com or at the first Diageo distillery you visit.

By the way, no cameras, cell phones or other electronic devices are allowed on the distillery tours, out of caution that a spark could ignite the alcohol.

In addition to visiting the Oban distillery (Stafford St., Oban, Argyll, Scotland; phone +44 1631 572004), we stopped at Dalwhinnie (Inverness-shire, Scotland; phone +44 1540 672219), Glen Ord (Muir of Ord, Ross-shire, Scotland; phone +44 1463 872004) and Glenkinchie (Pencaitland, Tranent, East Lothian, Scotland; phone +44 1875 342004), the latter so far off the main road that finding it was a real adventure in itself.*

We learned that, by law, Scotch whisky has to be distilled in Scotland using only water, malted barley and yeast and then aged in oak casks for at least three years. Although there are some variations, the whisky can be categorized as single malt or as blended.

Single-malt Scotch whisky is produced at a single distillery using a pot still. Blended Scotch whisky may be a blend of malt whiskies from different distilleries and whiskies distilled in Scotland from other grains.

About 90% of the Scotch whisky on the market is blended. The process of making the whisky is simple, but the results are an incredible range of tastes and flavors. Those flavors are a result of the water, the malting process and the location of the distillery.

For example, the whiskies from the Island of Islay, such as Laphroaig or Bowmore, have a very strong, smoky taste because the malted barley is dried over peat fires.

Oban malt whisky has a balance of richness and flavors with a slight taste of salt because the distillery is very close to the ocean.

Glenkinchie is distilled in the Lowlands of Scotland and is light and delicate.

The Diageo whiskies are aged in oak casks from the US that were first used to age bourbon. Some whiskies are also aged in casks that were used for sherry, giving them a sweeter flavor.

Single-malt whiskies are aged from 10 to more than 25 years, which adds to the taste and character, not to mention the price. Unfortunately, the longer the whisky ages in a cask, the more the alcohol evaporates. For a whisky that is aged 12 years, about 25% is lost. The Scots call this the Angels’ Share.

We left Scotland convinced that these happy angels are responsible for the beauty of the country and its friendly people.

*Details on the four distilleries can be found on the Diageo-associated website www.discovering-distilleries.com