A family of four tours the Netherlands with just a pack apiece

The family that travels together, stays together. Such is the motto of the Dantoin family. Each summer, Mom and the four kids attempt a different international expedition. 

In preparation for each trip, we create a self-made itinerary, weaving in elements that include all of our interests while trying to live like locals in whatever country we happen to visit. Whether staying in a nunnery in Rome or enjoying breakfast with locals in a Paris boulangerie, we try to become natives. 

For our August 2014 trip, our team of five was to become four — Mom, Phillip, Stuart and me, Claudia — as the eldest child was taking an Arctic adventure on her own. (Talk about leaving the nest!) Therefore, it was up to the four of us to create a trip that would live up to the family’s expectations. 

Making plans

Since we had already traveled to the big three — London, Rome and Paris — we first had to decide where to go. In the end, we planned an ambitious itinerary that would give us maximum exposure to each city visited. 

Also, given that my siblings and I are old enough to appreciate sights beyond the major monuments and typical tourist venues, we felt free to choose a destination that was more “off the beaten track.” 

After tossing many ideas back and forth, we decided on a dual-country plan: to spend a week crisscrossing the cities and countrysides of the Netherlands and Belgium, traveling by train and with backpacks only. 

Our selected stops came mainly from combining recommendations from Tripadvisor.com with our own historical and architectural interests and input from fellow international travelers, but we were willing to change plans along the way.

Our decision to travel with backpacks only was not a light one (no pun intended). While we usually take only carry-ons, restricting each traveler to just a backpack is much more of a commitment to traveling light. We couldn’t pack many creature comforts, but it gave us the flexibility we needed to rapidly move from city to city. 

For our choice of pack, we each went with one by The North Face that offered good quality and a deep body that was perfect for storing clothes and toiletries, with room for some small souvenirs that we might pick up over the course of our week. 

We also took along two of our smartphones that were set up with international roaming for Internet access in places without free Wi-Fi and for international calling. These got us through our week of sightseeing.

Arriving in Amsterdam

Flying KLM direct from Chicago to Amsterdam, we were impressed by the professionalism of the staff. Getting in early on a Sunday morning, we hit the ground running. 

One thing I love about traveling in Europe is the ease of using public transportation. For €20 ($23), the four of us took the direct Intercity train from Schiphol Airport to Amsterdam Centraal, the city’s main train station. 

The moment we stepped out of the station doors, we were struck by the absolute charm of Amsterdam. At 8 a.m., most people were not yet stirring, and we were left with an unobstructed view of the canals, boats and quaint houses. 

We decided to wander through the small side streets and spent our first hour in the city covering about a mile (according to our ever-faithful Google Maps) on foot. In fact, we were so impressed with the city that we didn’t even realize we had wandered into the Red Light District until later that day! 

As Catholics, our next stop on this Sunday morning was church. We always enjoy attending Mass in different countries, as the church architecture and local traditions differ so much from place to place. 

After some searching on Google Maps, we headed for De Krijtberg Kerk (Singel 446), arriving, via tram, in time for the 9:30 Mass. (The tram became our main mode of transport in Amsterdam.) Located just steps from the Spui tram stop, this historical church was beautiful.

Settling in

After discovering the nearest grocery store, the ubiquitous Albert Heijn, for some breakfast, we found our way to our home for the next few days, The College Hotel (Roelof Hartstraat 1; www.thecollegehotel.com). The hotel was situated near the Roelof Hartplein tram stop in south Amsterdam and just steps from Museum Square. We had booked two rooms, one of which was upgraded to a suite on our arrival. 

Reviews on Tripadvisor were mediocre, but with such a prime price ($400 per night for four people in two suites) and location, we decided to risk it. With initially nonfunctional wall sockets plus a noisy wedding on the last night of our stay, our time at The College Hotel was not entirely without difficulty, but the superb staff’s responses to our issues and the refreshing and relaxing atmosphere made this an accommodation that all four of us would recommend in a heartbeat. 

We dined on three nights at the friendly neighborhood pub across the street, Wildschut (Reolof Hartplein 1-3; www.cafewildschut.nl), a fun café with a very “local” atmosphere. They offered hearty-enough cuts of meat to satisfy the teenage boys in our group while remaining sophisticated enough for the girls. (Dishes averaged €10-€15.)

Museum visits

That first day we took it easy, napping after church before heading over to the Anne Frank House. In a light sprinkle, we waited an hour and a half for entry. Audio guides were available and proved quite helpful. 

The museum, itself, was small, and it took barely over an hour to go through it all, but the experience was quite moving and well worth the wait.

We began the next morning by touring the museums of Amsterdam. We decided on the Van Gogh Museum for our first visit of the day because of its reportedly long lines. 

Getting there right at opening time (9 a.m.), we still waited around 45 minutes to enter. 

While we discovered that we were not particularly fans of the late master’s work, his effect on Dutch history was quite profound, and seeing the progression of his work over his lifetime was fascinating. 

We then crossed the plaza to the Rijksmuseum, the country’s primary national museum. There was no line, and admission was quite inexpensive (€17.50 per adult; under 18, free). 

There we discovered where our family’s artistic preferences lay: with the works of the Dutch Golden Age masters. We took in Vermeer’s famous painting “The Milkmaid” and Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch,” both of which were impressive. 

On a pleasant side note, unlike at other famous European museums, it was entirely possible to get quite close to the artwork, and visiting in the late afternoon on a Monday meant that there were no crowds.

In order to rest our weary legs (walking through museums all day takes dedication, especially with two teenage boys), we decided to take in Amsterdam from its canals. So we hopped onto a regularly scheduled hop-on, hop-off canal tour offered by See Amsterdam (phone +31 [0] 20 3379733, www.seeamsterdam.nl) that meets outside of the Anne Frank House. 

An hour long, this tour (E20 per adult for a 24-hour ticket) is conducted in several languages, but make sure you sit near the speakers or you will not hear a thing! We found it quite informative.

The next day we had planned on moving on to our next city, but not before making a few more pit stops! 

The Amsterdam Tulip Museum was a charming museum nestled in a quiet residential area. This small but interesting museum walked us through the history of the tulip bulb in the Netherlands. While the exhibits were perhaps a little cartoonish, the education we received about the flower was exactly what we were after. 

After a rather long walk along one of the main canals, we ended up at the Museum of the Canals. Set in the old residence of one of Amsterdam’s most prized architects, this rather pricey museum (€12 pp) was the one both of my brothers preferred. 

With interactive lighting, scale models of Amsterdam and its evolution as it grew, canal by canal, and other brand-new displays, this museum was probably the most innovative fusion of education and technology that I have ever experienced. Plus, given its very recent opening, it had not yet built up long lines. If you are looking for a new adventure in Amsterdam, this is it!

Just across the canal from this gem is the more famous Begijnhof, an old converted convent that hosts a beautiful chapel and courtyard and a bit of history of the Catholic Church in the Netherlands. 

The Hague and Rotterdam

On to The Hague! This was the next stop on our excursion and my mom’s new favorite city. The seat of Dutch government, The Hague has a unique blend of skyscrapers situated amongst ancient castles. 

The first and most important reason for our visit there was to see the newly refurbished Maurishuis museum, located right next to the Parliament buildings. A fun feature offered at the Maurishuis was an app that, using our own smartphone and the provided free Wi-Fi, served as our audio guide. 

The museum’s most famous “resident” is Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring,” the reason we took this day trip to the city. We had an unobstructed view of this beautiful work for several minutes, resulting in a fierce and ongoing debate within the family about whether this work or the “Mona Lisa” should be more revered. 

Following our time at the museum, we walked along Embassy Row, ending up at the Peace Palace, which is famous for the many WWII trials conducted there as well as its social justice programs. (The walk was charming simply for the architecture!) 

Stuart, our 15-year-old political and history buff, acted as tour guide, regaling us with stories that may or may not have contained some “embellishment.” 

While we all were surprised to find that we wanted more time in The Hague, our beds were waiting in Rotterdam, so we hopped the next train and sped on to Pincoffs (Stieltjesstraat 34; www.hotelpincoffs.nl), a delightful hotel located right on the river in the Nieuwe Maas neighborhood. We had booked a spacious 2-bedroom suite at an amazing rate ($290 per night for four people). 

That night our group reached an executive decision. Instead of moving on to Belgium after the next day’s round of sightseeing, we would remain in the Netherlands, spending an extra day in Rotterdam, then turning around to tour other areas of the country, concluding our trip back in Amsterdam, where we felt we had left too many options unexplored. After all, what are backpacks for if not for allowing spontaneity? 

Our new part two

The next day, we took in Rotterdam by boat. We first embarked on a tour with Spido, a company that caters to those interested in this massive shipping harbor. We learned a great deal about the proud history of the port and the famous modern architecture of its skyline, which arose following the heavy bombing of WWII. 

To find out more about Rotterdam’s relationship with the water, we moved on to the Harbour Museum (free entry). Its exhibits allowed interactive looks at some older ships, but descriptions were almost exclusively in Dutch, with no option of an audio guide. (The boys did enjoy tying some mariner’s knots.) 

We moved next door to the Maritime Museum (€8.50 per adult), which offered a bit more history of the harbor and its role today.

Before we did anything else, we enjoyed an early dinner at Hamburg (Witte de Withstraat 94B). Located in a young, hip part of the city, this authentic burger joint served some of the best burgers that I have ever had (€7-€14). We still rave about our meal! 

However, there can be no rest for the weary, so after our meal we took the subway up to Delfshaven. This historic part of town was home to the charming church from which the Pilgrims sailed to England and on to America in order to begin their lives of religious freedom.

With our eyes on the skyline, we walked for almost half an hour (public transportation could not get us any closer) to the Euromast, Rotterdam’s tower in the sky. We took in this architectural landmark, and the panoramic views of the city it offers, just as the sun was setting. Perfect! 

With no chance of returning to our hotel by land transport, we did what the Dutch do and called a water taxi. These bright-yellow boats zip through the water, giving passengers an exciting and efficient way to move through the city. While on the expensive side (€28 for all of us for the 10-minute ride), we treated the trip as a bit of a sightseeing excursion in its own right — a great deal of fun for the family and a great way to end the day.

Special interests

The next day, our modern architecture day, was a day for Phillip. My 16-year-old brother loves all things modern, and, while he had enjoyed our previous museums, we decided it was time to indulge his more modern sensibilities. 

With that in mind, we first toured the Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam’s famous school of architecture. Attracting students from all over the world, this incredible school was filled with all manner of projects on display — well worth the walk-through. 

Next door (and included in the €10 ticket price) was the famous Huis Zonneveld, a museum house that was built in the Nieuwe Bouwen school style, a Dutch precursor to the Art Deco movement. 

Before hopping on our train back to Amsterdam, we stopped to see the Kubuswoning, the famous cube houses of Rotterdam (admission, €3 per person). Built as off-centered cubes, each apartment was cramped, lacked historical explanations and felt (and smelt) like a houseboat. Even Phillip would recommend skipping the walk-through and simply taking a picture. 

On our way back to Amsterdam, we stopped off at the small university town of Delft. Following a grueling 30-minute walk (later we found out that bus 37 or 40 would have taken us within three blocks of our chosen destination), we arrived at the famous ceramics factory of Royal Delft, which continues to make Delftware for the royal family of Denmark. 

This off-the-beaten-path museum was absolutely fantastic, providing an interactive, engaging tour that every single member of our family loved. 

When we travel as a family, we make sure that every child has his or her interests represented in the sites we visit, making the trip more personal for everyone. However, as with our visit to the Royal Delft factory, we often discover that an excursion becomes a trip highlight for the entire family.

Amsterdam again

Arriving back in Amsterdam that evening, Mom discovered that she had forgotten her phone on the train. The ever-helpful staff at The College Hotel banded together to help us fill out the proper paperwork to send in to the department of transportation. We ended the night on a high note, being greeted as locals at our favorite haunt, Wildschut, where the staff remembered our “usual” orders.

Our last day in Amsterdam began with a stop at the Rembrandt House Museum, which provided a pleasant and informative look at the famous painter. On our way out, Mom ordered a coffee at the café across the street, which turned out to have a more “organic” menu of offerings, including a full selection of marijuana. Another interesting site to check off our list! 

Next we traveled outside the city a bit to Amsterdam ArenA, the stadium of the Dutch national football team and of Ajax Amsterdam, one of the Netherlands’ most beloved football clubs. Our family always tries to tour local football stadiums, given that so much European culture is connected to its popular teams and that very few Americans tend to take these tours. Just as we predicted, though the tour (€14.50 per adult) was conducted in English, we were the only Americans in attendance.

Back in Amsterdam, we attempted to rent bicycles for one last tour of town via the most local of transport methods, but we were surprised to find that we had accidentally booked a water bike. However, I suppose it was only fitting that we ended our tour of the Netherlands on the water. Spending a pleasant hour paddling around town, we recalled our favorite spots and began to wonder why we were leaving so soon.

An unexpected ending

Our return to the States was not a relaxing one. We arrived at the airport only to find that we had to wait in two snaking lines for KLM customer service. The reason? We had made the fatal error of assuming that we could miss the first leg of our flight out of Brussels, where we had intended to be, and simply pick up our connection in Amsterdam back to Chicago. Not so! We were informed that our entire flight itinerary had been canceled. 

After some serious pushing, we were rebooked on the same flight, though we ended up having to pay a not-so-small fee of €300, total, in order to get our seats back.

Despite some hiccups, long walks and unexpected bumps, we all agreed that this had been our most successful family trip to date. With nothing but a backpack for a week’s worth of belongings, we truly lived as locals. 

While we did plan extensively beforehand, we were able to chart our own path while traveling and make decisions as a family, bringing us all closer together, as any good trip should. 

By taking into account everyone’s interests and making a few tweaks along the way, we experienced a trip that will be very hard to beat… though we will, of course, certainly try!