Moulin de la Ville in Dordogne

In the Dordogne region of France, my wife and I had the privilege to stay for seven nights at Moulin de la Ville (Le Village, Beaumont-du-Périgord, France; phone +33 5 53 22 47 35, www.moulindelaville.com) in September 2014.

This small chambre et table d’hôte (similar to a bed-and-breakfast), which we found through TripAdvisor.com, is run by a British expat couple, Sue and Steve. They’ve transformed the former mill, set on five acres of land at the edge of the village of Beaumont-du-Périgord, into an oasis of tranquility. The property is beautifully decorated. 

Our accommodations consisted of a separate wing of the house containing a bedroom with a double bed and an adjacent bathroom with a shower. We had use of the lounge area, an atrium and multiple outdoor sitting areas.

The rate of €70 (near $86) per night included a breakfast of fresh bread and croissants, cereal, fruit, yogurt, juice and coffee or tea. For an additional €25 ($31) each, we also took advantage of the offered evening meal.

As we returned to Moulin de la Ville from our sightseeing, Sue would offer us beer or wine. While we relaxed in the garden, enjoying the peaceful surroundings, Steve would be in the kitchen preparing our 3-course dinner.

Steve trained at the Savoy Hotel in London and worked at the double-Michelin-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire, England. Before moving to France, he operated two of his own restaurants, one of which was awarded a Michelin star. 

All of the meals were excellent. Steve accommodated our dietary requirements and was happy to discuss his recipes with us. Unlimited wine was served with each meal. After we finished eating, Sue and Steve would join us for a chat, which extended well into the night most evenings.

Beaumont-du-Périgord is a bastide (fortified town) dating from the late 13th century and built by King Edward I of England. It has the usual assortment of shops, primarily set around the main square, and a few restaurants. 

There’s a gas station at the edge of town, and while my non-chip-and-PIN credit cards wouldn’t work at the pump, an employee in the booth took payment in cash.

If you happen to be in the village on a Monday night during the summer, you’ll have the chance to take part in the weekly festival in the main square, with lots of food and drink on hand as well as music and dancing.

Beaumont served as an excellent base for exploring the central portion of the Dordogne area. We flew into Bordeaux, picked up our car and drove about two hours to Beaumont, though there is also an airport in nearby Bergerac. 

NEIL JOHNSON

San Jose, CA