Dresden's inspiring rebirth
Intriguing Dresden, Germany, winds up on far fewer American itineraries than it deserves to. Don't make that mistake. Since its horrific firebombing in World War II, the city has transitioned to a thriving cultural center that's well worth a visit. Even with only a day to spare, Dresden is a doable side trip from bigger attractions like Berlin or Prague.
The burg surprises visitors with fanciful Baroque architecture in a delightful-to-stroll cityscape, a history that mingles tragedy with inspiration, and some ofGermany's best museum-going. A generation ago, Dresden was dreary, but today it's young and vibrant, crawling with proud locals, cheery tourists, and happy-go-lucky students who have no memory of communism.
Even so, Dresden's heritage of destruction is hard to ignore. I'll never forget standing on Altmarkt square in the Old Town ... just another square. Then, looking down at the cobblestones, I saw an inscription that read, "After the air attack on Dresden onFebruary 13-14 1945, the corpses of 6,865 people were burned on this spot." Carved on a piece of granite above that was a simple statement: "We brought the war to the world, and ultimately it came home to us."
Four eras have shaped Dresden: its Golden Age in the mid-18th century; the city's devastation in World War II; the communist regime (1945-1989); and the current "reconstruction after reunification" era. Each city sight provides a glimpse into this timeline, so I like to weave my sightseeing into a day-long stroll for the most comprehensive and meaningful visit. The highlights are conveniently clustered along the delightful Elbe River promenade, nicknamed the Balcony of Europe.
I start at Theaterplatz, the main square and home to the statue of
King John of Saxony, a mid-19th century ruler who preserved Saxon culture in Germany. The buildings in this square -- like many Dresden landmarks -- are reconstructed to resemble their pre-bombing facades. At the head of the square, the sprawling Zwinger palace was once the site of lavish royal celebrations hosted by the Wettin dynasty, which ruled Saxony for eight centuries. Today, this Baroque complex is filled with three museums, including the Old Masters Gallery, featuring works by Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt, and more.
Across the street, the Royal Palace, once destroyed, is being rebuilt -- with galleries opening as they're completed. Here, I visit the Historic Green Vault. Wettin dynasty big shot Augustus the Strong began his Baroque treasury collection here in the early 1700s, and the extravagant trove is clearly designed to wow. The ivory, silver, and gold knickknacks are dazzling examples of "Gesamtkunstwerk" -- a symphony of artistic creations, though obnoxiously gaudy by today's tastes. (It's important to reserve tickets well in advance; the number of visitors each day is limited to protect the collection.)
The highlight of my day is a stop at the symbol and soul of the city: Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady). After World War II, Frauenkirche was left a pile of rubble and turned into a peace monument. Only after Germany's 1990 reunification was the decision made to rebuild it completely and painstakingly. Over a decade and 100 million euroslater, it reopened in 2005. Inside, the circular nave is bright, welcoming, and poignant, featuring a twisted old cross, which fell 300 feet and burned in the bombing wreckage. Lost until restorers uncovered it from the debris in 1993, it stands exactly on the place where it was found -- still relatively intact. The persistence of this cross symbolizes the themes of the church: rebirth, faith, and resolution.
Frauenkirche towers over Neumarkt, a once-central square ringed by rich merchants' homes. The eight quarters that surround Neumarkt have been rebuilt to resemble the facades of the original structures, and the area is once again alive with bustling cafes. A statue of
Martin Luther holding his self-translated Bible reminds passers-by of the Reformation that began in nearby Wittenberg.
A short walk toward the water leads me to the end of the Balcony ofEurope, where the modern art museum Albertinum boasts a fine collection of work by Gaugin, Monet, Picasso, and Rodin and other Romantic and contemporary masters.
Dresden's intense history and remarkable museums can be draining. To unwind after my walking tour, I head over to the New Town(Neustadt), across the river. The bombs missed most of this area, so it retains its well-worn, prewar character. With virtually no sights, the area is emerging as the city's lively people zone that's best after dark, when the funky Outer New Town sets the tempo for Dresden's trendy nightlife.
Today, Dresden is rebuilt, full of life, and wide open for visitors. These streets paint a portrait of the city's highest highs and lowest lows, but in this era of cultural rebirth, Dresden is in its prime.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Hotel Kipping has 20 quiet, tidy rooms behind the train station. The original building survived the 1945 firebombing and even served as a shelter (moderate, www.hotel-kipping.de). Aparthotels an der Frauenkirche rents 100 units in beautifully restored houses in the heart of the Old Town (splurge,www.aparthotels-frauenkirche.de).
EATING: Winzerstube Zum Rebstock is a charming pub serving Saxon cuisine in the New Town. Sit in the leafy and quiet "Baroque garden" courtyard (Haupstrasse 17, tel. 0351/563-3544). In the Old Town center, Grand Cafe and Restaurant Coselpalais is a good value for Saxon and French cuisine in the shadow of the Frauenkirche. Dine indoors under Baroque chandelier s, or in the fine outdoor courtyard (An der Frauenkirche 12, tel. 0351/496-2444).
GETTING AROUND: Buy a day pass for the trams -- they are cheap, easy to use, and run every few minutes. Otherwise, most worthwhile sights are within walking distance along the south bank of the river.
FOR TOURIST INFORMATION: www.dresden.de/tourismus.
(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog onFacebook.)