Clutching our tickets, passports and visas (at — gasp! — $100 each), my husband and I inched into the Aeroflot line. It was Sept. 5, ’03, and we were bound for Moscow from San Francisco.
Arriving in Moscow, we were met by a representative from Peter the Great Cruises (Brooklyn, NY; phone 800/828-7970) and whisked to M/S Peter the Great (or Zosima Shashkov), the river ship which would be our home for the next three weeks.
On our way to Volgograd (formerly Stalingrad), we would...
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