The driver of the taxi I shared with my travel companion, Bob, dropped us off at a bus station on the edge of Samarkand, Uzbekistan. It was May 2013.
There, another driver was waiting with his old Zhiguli (Lada). He wanted “10” for the ride into town, meaning either $10 or €10, almost as much as we had paid for one person for the 286-kilometer ride from Tashkent. Then he came down to “five.”
I wrote “5000” on my hand, meaning 5,000 som, or about $2.25. At that, the driver...
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